Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
